O Scale Dead-Rail

Welcome to the O Scale Dead-Rail Site, dedicated to the interests of those modeling in O scale who wish to use battery power and radio control (BPRC) of locomotives.

Folks interested in either O scale model railroading, especially modifying or updating locomotives, or “dead-rail” (battery power and radio control of locomotives) might find some posts interesting.

Please use the search function to the right to find my relevant blog pages.

In addition to my blog pages, please see the pages that are listed on the side.

I am selling my ProMini Air transmitter and ProMiniAir receiver, which are compatible with Dead-Rail products from Tam Valley Depot, CVP Airwire, Stanton Cab, and several others. These items range from $39.99 to $49.99. If interested, please get in touch with me here with a comment, or you can search on eBay using “ProMiniAir.”

Summary of ProMini Air Transmitters and Receivers for Dead-Rail

The new ProMini Air receiver with a small DRV8871 amplifier
A demonstration of the compatibility of the new, smaller ProMini Air receiver (on the right) with an Airwire T5000 transmitter (on the left). A LokSound 4 L decoder receives DCC from the ProMini Air.
  • System: ProMini Air (PMA) Transmitters and Receivers
    • Transmit and receive in the 902-928MHz North American ISM band or the 869MHz European ISM band. These are common bands used for Dead Rail.
    • Nineteen channels are available: Airwire 0-16, Stanton Cab on Channel 17, and European operation on Channel 18.
    • If no signal is found on its default channel, the PMA receiver auto-scans all 19 channels
    • Acts as a DCC device with a unique address: change settings using “OPS” (PoM) mode on the throttle
    • We paid the manufacturer for both FCC and EC certification of the RF module (Ebyte E07-900M10S) used for both the PMA transmitter and receiver
    • Has connections for an LCD that provides information about what the PMA is transmitting or receiving
  • Requirements:
    • RECEIVER
      • DCC decoder: Any DCC decoder should work. We test with the following:
        1. TCS (WOW501)
        2. LokSound (4 L, 5 L, 5 XL)
        3. Zimo (MX696 and MX699)
        4. MTH PS-3.0 (in DCC mode)
      • Battery: We test with 14.7V, but 11.1V should work. Maximum: 20V, but lower voltages reduce RF noise.
      • Compatible transmitters:
        1. ProMini Air transmitter connected to the track output of any DCC throttle or to a WiFi-equipped EX-CommandStation we can provide (search “ProMiniAir” on eBay) for a fully stand-alone transmitter.
        2. Tam Valley Depot DRS1 transmitter connected to a DCC throttle
        3. CVP Airwire handheld throttle
        4. Stanton Cab handheld throttle
        5. Gwire handheld throttle
    • TRANSMITTER
      • Any DCC throttle or use our NEW stand-alone ProMini Air transmitter/WiFi-equipped EX-CommandStation – nothing else is needed to transmit! Just put it down in a convenient/central location, plug-in power or use a battery, and use your smartphone throttle app (multiple smartphones are OK) to connect to all of your dead-rail locomotives! Search “ProMiniAir” on eBay. Our thanks to the DCC-EX.com team.
      • Compatible receivers:
        1. ProMini Air receiver
        2. Tam Valley Depot DRS1 receivers
        3. CVP Airwire receivers: G-3, G-4, CONVRTR 15/25/60
        4. Stanton Cab receivers
        5. Gwire receivers
        6. NCE D13DRJ wireless decoder
  • Why Choose
    • Compatible with multiple other dead-rail transmitters and receivers:
      1. Tam Valley Depot
      2. CVP Airwire
      3. Stanton CabGwire
    • Inexpensive
      • PMA Rx: $39.99: price includes a fully-wired amplifier. Search “ProMiniAir” on eBay for
      • PMA Tx: $39.99: price includes the small board that converts track DCC from a standard DCC throttle to power, and 5V DCC signal for the PMA transmitter, and an LCD that provides helpful information. If you don’t have a DCC throttle, we can provide a small WiFi-equipped EX-CommandStation for a complete stand-alone transmitter solution using up any WiThrottle-compatible smartphone app (up to 5 users) for $10 extra. Search “ProMiniAir” on eBay.
    • Less susceptible to supply chain disruptions by using commodity components
    • Modular:
      • Use best-in-class amplifiers, not some add-on on the receiver board that decreases receiver mounting flexibility. We provide one of the following amplifiers:
        • Cytron MD13S: a powerful amplifier (13A) for G-scale and large O-scale locomotives
        • DRV8871: a small (1.0″ x 0.8″) amplifier (3.6A) for smaller, lower-power locomotives
      • Small receiver size (1.1″ x 0.83″) will fit in some smaller-scale locomotives and locate separately from the amplifier
      • U.FL connector on the receiver offers numerous antenna options (internal antennas don’t cut it in many applications such as metal-shell locomotives):
      • Whip antenna (provided): simple and practical or more “classical” compact RP-SMA antennas U.FL extender: re-locate the whip antenna or to RP-SMA antennas: U.FL patch antennas: mount to non-metallic surfaces(compact enough for internal mounts in non-metallic shells!)
    • Provides centralized or localized handheld dead-rail control: other solutions only offer localized handheld transmitter control: a severe limitation.
    • Uses an FCC/EC-approved transmitter/receiver: The range performance of the ProMini Air significantly exceeds the Tam Valley Depot DRS1 transmitters: open-air performance up to approximately 250 ft with default power settings.
    • North American or European operation
    • DCC-based: preserves your investment in DCC decoders (connects to PMA receiver) and throttles (connects to PMA transmitter). Let’s face it, DCC decoders are standardized and produce beautiful sounds, flexible light effects, superb motor control, etc. Other proprietary locomotive control solutions “vendor-lock” you into a single solution that may leave you stranded if the vendor goes out of business.
  • About that name: We based the “ProMini” part of the name on Sparkfun’s “Pro Mini” MCU we use as part of our modular design philosophy.
  • Documentation: We hope the ProMini Air is simple to use. Should you need it, we provide a detailed user manual.

Two critical points:

  1. Most other Dead-Rail solutions provide localized control using handheld throttles or smartphones. This approach does not scale well for larger or complex layouts better managed by centralized control. “Classical” DCC throttles or the very low-cost WiFi-equipped EX-CommandStation we can provide solve these problems well. The ProMini Air transmitter connects to these well-designed throttles to control numerous dead-rail locomotives by simply replacing track DCC with wireless DCC.
  2. Numerous Dead-Rail systems are not interoperable with other vendors’ products. We strive to provide as much interoperability as possible with other vendors in the 869MHz (for Europe) and 915MHz (for North America) ISM bands. It’s an “island of compatibility” in Dead-Rail, and the rest is a “tower of Babel” vendor lock.

As of July 2022, Tam Valley Depot is no longer selling its DRS1 series dead-rail products. Our ProMini Air receiver and transmitter are complete and fully-compatible replacements for Tam Valley Depot’s DRS1 transmitters and receivers. Your Tam Valley transmitters and receivers will work with the ProMini Air products. The ProMini Air transmitters and receivers are compatible with CVP Airwire and Stanton Cab dead-rail products.

Thanks for dropping by!

34 thoughts on “O Scale Dead-Rail”

  1. Found your site through your facebook page. I’m blown away by your capabilities and communication talent.
    I’m in north Idaho (remote) and your site opens up a world to me. I am starting a new layout and am using Atlas 3-rail track. Am into the bench work stage, have thought about going 2 rail, but not sure how to go about selling/converting my 3-rail stuff. Have used DCS/TMCC and found them problematic to maintain signal integrity.
    I think dead rail is the future and your are there already. Have been watching Blue Rail etc technologies but not confidant enough to jump in. You have inspired me to go forward. Your spirit gives me confidence should I need some guidance.
    I have thought about charging from the third rail in “parking” places on the layout. Ever do this?
    Again, thanks for your donation to the hobby!
    Larryt

    Reply

    1. Thanks for dropping by and for your comments! I’m happy that you are taking the next steps in dead-rail. Powered trackage just makes my heart quail, and I want to overcome the 2-rail/3-rail “divide” in O scale with dead-rail.

      I have not tried charging at a “parking place.” You would need to be very careful not to short out onboard electronics after working so hard to eliminate locomotive/tender electrical connections to the track.

      Here’s a possible approach. I usually use a single-pole, 3-position switch whose center pole connects to Battery +. Battery – is always ground for me. “Position 1” of the switch connects Battery + to all of the onboard electronics to supply power. Position 2 disconnects Battery + from everything to help keep it from draining away charge while off. Positon 3 connects Battery + to the center pole of a charging plug. The outer side of the charging plug is grounded. Perhaps you could electrically connect this position on the switch to whichever rail is positive power, making sure that the “battery ground” is electrically-connected to whichever track is ground.

      Here’s the catch. The power you supply to the rails for charging should be the same as comes from a specialized LiPo battery charger. The chargers are not expensive, but voltage and amperage levels during charging is specialized. To my way of thinking, you should electrically isolate the parking place track with a LiPo charger connected to it.

      I cannot emphasize enough; please ensure that applying power to the tracks will not inadvertently damage your onboard electronics or cause a short!

      Battery charging is a downside to dead-rail. Folks at the Facebook dead-rail group discuss this topic, among many others. Who knows, maybe you will come up with an elegant solution!

      Reply

      1. This is fantastic!
        I have been involved with 1:29 scale (G Scale) for the better part of the last 20 years. I have been considering making a transition to 1:48 (2-rail) due to more product availability and prototypical offerings. Don’t get me wrong – I love modeling in 1:29, but it has became a bit labor-intensive to try to model prototypically.

        Anyway – questions:
        I am a huge fan of the Ring Engineering team and their Rail Pro system. Do you or does anyone have any experience or opinions on the optimal set up for modern diesel locomotives using the Rail Pro system combined with (?) battery configuration? Can this be accomplished without using a “non-powered” additional loco or boxcar to house these components? Plus sound?

        Cheers! Jeff
        sjgust89@gmail.com

        Reply

        1. Jeff, sorry for the delayed reply. Although I have looked over Ring Engineering products, I have no personal experience with them. I’m not sure they support DCC for large-scale locomotives, and in general, I shy away from proprietary, non-DCC-compliant Dead-Rail solutions – but that’s just me. I suggest you join the Dead-Rail Society Facebook group to gain others’ perspective on Dead-Rail solutions.

          Working in O scale, I have always been able to put the Dead-Rail components in the locomotive and tender (I work with Steam). I have found that sound (and smoke!) are best solved using DCC decoders coupled with Dead-Rail.

          Reply

  2. My name is Jeff Gust. I am a prototype modeler and have been in the hobby for over 40 years. I currently selling off my current inventory to begin collecting and modeling in 1:48 2-rail. Two things: I am planning to build the layout outdoors and I am going all onboard power (Dead Rail). Is there a Dead Rail club I can subscribe to? I would like to be able to share ideas with other like-minded individuals.
    nwshortlines@gmail.com

    Reply

    1. Hi Jeff,
      I recommend you join the Dead-Rail Group on Facebook (here). This group is active and diverse. Also, there is the O Gauge Battery Trains Facebook group here. They are British/European in emphasis, but there are lots of O Gauge outdoor layouts! Also, this group tends to be quite knowledgeable and technically capable. I hope this gives you a start. Thanks for stopping by.

      Reply

  4. Recently found your website!!!

    I’ve been running deadrail (or BPRC, Battery-Powered, Remote-Control) for 7+ years now. I have approximately 2 dozen 3-rail O-scale engines (MTH, Lionel, Atlas, Williams/Samhongsa brass) converted to Deltang receivers/transmitters and using 9.6v, 12v 2000Mah NiMh or 11.1v 2200Mah LiPo battery Tenergy battery packs. I get over 2.5 hours of run time on a charge.

    All of my engines and rolling stock are 3-rail, but I run on code 148 2-rail track (Atlas, Micro-Engineering, and Signature Switch).

    I can honestly say that in 7 years I have had zero failures of the electronics. Also zero derailments that were not “operator error”.

    After using the MTH DCS system and Lionel TMCC system, then converting to BPRC, I’ll never go back.

    I don’t have sound currently, but I really don’t miss it. The trains make enough sounds (noise) themselves that most onboard sounds are lost or muffled by the sounds of the train running around the layout anyway.

    No wiring on my 13×30 layout, no worrying about reverse loops, short or open circuitry, or dirty track causing loss of signal. Just good clean running of my locomotives.

    Smallest/tightest engines I have are a MTH RailKing Imperial USRA 0-6-0 and a NW2, largest is a Williams/Samhongsa brass 4-8-4 N&W class J #611.

    I get most of my batteries from the Tenergy store on Amazon and RC gear from RCS Australia or Micron Radio Control in the UK. Tony Walsham at RCS Australia makes/made a real nice unit that has an on/off switch, a charging jack, and necessary fuses all on a single circuit board, called a BIK-U3. Simplifies wiring greatly.

    I’ll be stopping by regularly to see what’s going on!

    Reply

    1. Hi Bob,

      Thanks for stopping by! I’m with you on never “going back” to track-based power and control. Just for grins, I recently converted an older 2-Rail MTH Z-6 to combined DCC track-power/BPRC. Using track power was nothing but pain, and using BPRC was a joy!

      I’ve had good experiences with Tenergy batteries, using their long, thin configurations where space is challenging, especially with tender-mounted MTH PS-3 boards (in DCC mode) since I need to mount the battery and receiver/amplifier in the crowded tender.

      A big part of this hobby is the variety of what folks enjoy. I like sound and smoke – the sound of an actual Allegheny recording and smoking away produced by my Zimo decoder works for me.

      To get a feel for the diversity of BPRC, I suggest joining either or both Facebook groups https://www.facebook.com/groups/deadrailsociety and https://www.facebook.com/groups/batterytrains. The latter has a distinctly “Commonwealth” feel with lots of outdoor/garden layouts.

      Thanks again.

      Reply

  5. Hello
    I’d like to convert my O scale MTH and LionChief locomotives to dead rail. I already have dead rail G scale with Airwire control.
    Please let me know how you can help with the conversions.
    Thanks

    Reply

    1. Hello George,
      Welcome to my site!

      Several of my posts deal with the conversion of MTH steam locomotives. Generally, my strategy for converting MTH is:
      – Install PS-3.0 boards if the locomotive has previous-generation PS boards. My posts provide information on getting PS-3.0 boards from Ray Manley. PS-3.0 boards have DCC capability as set by a DCS/DCC jumper.
      – Disconnect the locomotive/tender leads to the track inputs on the PS-3.0 board. My posts show examples of this.
      – Install the battery, charging plug, power switch, antenna, and dead-rail receiver/amp.
      – Connect the DCC track output of the dead-rail receiver/amp to the PS-3.0’s track inputs.

      If there is interest, I will describe my conversion of a Lionel H-7 to deadrail. My strategy is to remove all Lionel electronics and install a standard DCC decoder in the locomotive and the dead-rail components (battery, charging plug, power switch, antenna, and dead-rail receiver/amp) in the tender. I like Lionel because they are designed to be serviced, so they are easy to take apart for conversion.

      I hope that starts to answer your question…

      Reply

  6. Hi Darrell, I have had 1/29 deadrail going right back to when Locolinc was the new kid on the block. I traded up to AirWire 10/15 years back. I still use it now.
    What I would like to do is to use the AirWire Tx to run British 1/43 O scale. Is this possible? If so what do I need to get started. Btw, I live in England.
    Thank you.
    Rod

    Reply

    1. Hi Rod, Thanks for visiting! I absolutely have some solutions for you (see next paragraph). I don’t know how sticky you are about transmission legality, but Airwire is NOT approved for Tx in the GB/EU since Airwire only transmits in the North American 902-928MHz ISM band, and its Anaren transceiver is approved to do so. But I very much doubt the Authorities will knock on your door if you use Airwire Tx!

      Solutions: You can use a fully Airwire-compatible ProMini Air receiver (PMA Rx) with a 3.6A or 13A amplifier: US$40+shipping. The PMA Rx will auto-scan to find valid transmissions, including the GB/EU-approved channel at 869.85MHz. The PMA Rx will absolutely work with Airwire transmitters. My homepage shows how you can use either the provided whip antenna, a “patch antenna” (I can provide one for about US$2.00), or a “pigtail” connector with a small, high-quality antenna. Connect battery power to the PMA Rx’s amplifier (which powers the PMA Rx itself), and connect the amplifier’s DCC output to your onboard DCC decoder, and away you go! The PMA Rx itself is small (1.1″ x 0.75″), and the small DRV8871 amplifier is (1.0″ x 0.8″). The larger Cytron MD13S 13A amplifier is 61mm x 33mm and requires no heatsink. This separation of the receiver from the amplifier gives you mounting flexibility, best-in-class amplifiers, and replacement modularity since these amplifiers are widely-available.

      Also, I have a completely stand-alone ProMini Air transmitter integrated with a WiFi-equipped EX-CommandStation ($50US+shipping). You can then use your WiThrottle-compatible smartphone app that connects to the PMA Tx’s WiFi and re-transmit to dead-rail receivers from me (ProMini Air receiver), Airwire, or Tam Valley Depot. The ProMini Air transmitter is FCC/EC approved. The PMA Tx is simply plopped down; power is applied from either wall or battery, and you connect to its WiFi with your smartphone throttle app. For my GB/EU customers, I set the default transmit frequency to the GB/EU-approved “Channel 18” (869.85MHz).

      Again, thanks for reaching out, and I look forward to hearing from you.

      Reply

  7. Sounds just what I’m looking for Darrell, although I shall have to re read the technical side with one of my electronic savvy friends. 😊
    I am aware of the issues regarding AirWire over here. I live quite rural so I’m fairly isolated from what could be problematic.
    I’ll be in touch soon. BTW, how do you accept payment? I don’t do PayPal.
    Regards
    Rod.

    Reply

    1. I’m here to answer any questions you have.

      I think the RF issues are pretty small, given the modest power (10mW max) for the transceivers we use.

      We can work out some payment method, such as Zelle or ACH (Automated Clearing House. Google ACH if you are not familiar with it – I was not, but it looks pretty simple)…

      I hope to hear from you soon!

      Reply

  8. Hi Darrell,
    I have been using Railpro for BPRC. With your system would I need 1 transmitter (use with my MRC 10A command station)?. I have a couple locos with MTh PS3 boards and Lionel switchers with small motors (ran with ho sound decoders) . which of your receivers would you recommend, and the rating of the decoder should match the receiver? My goal is to run with smart phones and later hopefully upgrade to protothrottle.
    Thank you,
    Fred

    Reply

    1. Hi Fred,
      Thanks for visiting and for your interest. Yes, the ProMini Air (PMA) transmitter would connect to your MRC10A (via a DCC converter that I provide as part of the cost). The transmitter will then transmit to all PMA receivers (or receivers from Airwire, Tam Valley Depot, or Stanton Cab). However, if you get the PMA transmitter integrated with a WiFi-equipped EX-CommandStation, you have a low-cost ($50 total) way to control multiple locomotives with a smartphone throttle app WITHOUT ANY ADDITIONAL DEVICES. Otherwise, you will need to equip your MRC10A with a WiFi add-on, such as the Prodigy WiFi module that will set you back about $139!

      If your long-range goal is Protothrottle, consider Martin Sant’s Xbee receivers at http://blueridgeengineering.net/protothrottle/. They are NOT compatible with PMA receivers.

      Again, thanks for your interest.

      Reply

      1. Hi Darrell
        Thank you for the information and the links. I am sticking with your system using smart phones. How do I order and pay? I would like to purchase the DCC-ex TX and 1-13 amp rx and one small rx.
        Thank you, Fred

        Reply

        1. Hi Fred,
          Please contact me at darrelllamm0@gmail.com, where you can provide me with a mailing address, and I’ll give you the “how to pay details.” The total would be PMA Tx/WiFI+EX-CommandState ($50) and two PMA Rx ($40/ea) for a total of $130. Appreciate your interest.

          Reply

  9. Hi Darrell:
    I reached out via the OGR forum just now. My system runs trains off of 18.5VAC overhead catenary, and the outside rails are the return, just like the real thing. Motors run very nicely (pan/wire interaction is solid), but DCS seems to get overwhelmed with more than three motors at once. More importantly, I have 2 Atlas O AEM7s that need some kind of command system that fits. Bluerail is a good solution that Ron045 on the OGR Forum used, but those board don’t appear to be available. Plus, to get rolling with basic lighting effects is over $300, which is not an investment I am willing to make.
    I read over your method briefly (more tonight), and while the cost seems much less, it seems a bit more complicated to get all the parts and get them talking. I wanted to email you about my system and how yours system might work in these motors. Thank you!
    –Nate

    Reply

    1. Hi Nate,
      The ProMiniAir receiver requires a DCC decoder that controls your motor, lighting, and sound (if you want it). DCC decoders do not need to be expensive. Radio control, however, usually uses battery power to prevent power interruptions, although a healthy rectifier w/ capacitors would probably work. Powering the radio-control receiver is an issue you need to address regardless of your chosen solution.

      So let’s total up the cost without battery or power converter since you would need to solve this problem for ANY radio-controlled solution.

      Possible solution #1:
      1. Transmitter: If you use my stand-alone ProMini-Air transmitter, that allows you to use a smartphone app such as WiThrottle. The cost is $49.99.
      2. Receiver: The integrated ProMiniAir transmitter/amp will deliver up to 13A to a decoder – more than you need. Please check that the amplifier will fit your application. It’s separate from the receiver, giving you some mounting flexibility. The cost is $39.99
      3. DCC decoder: Which brand is religion. A SOUNDTRAXX #886005 TSU-4000 4 AMP TSUNAMI2 DECODER – ELECTRIC LOCOMOTIVES will set you back $164. A Massoth 8153101 eMOTION XXL II Locomotive Decoder will cost $100.
      So, you are talking about $189.98 to $253.98, with a recurring cost for an additional locomotive of $139.99 to $203.99.

      Possible solution #2:
      1. Receiver: You can use an Airwire G-4 to control your motor and lights without any additional components. The cost is $160.
      2. Transmitter: You can pay $170 or so for an Airwire T6000 or $49.99 for my stand-alone ProMiniAir transmitter (using a smartphone app). The ProMiniAir transmitter is compatible with Airwire receiver products.
      With this combination, you are talking about $219.99 to $330. But your recurring cost for an additional locomotive is only $160 for the G-4.

      I hope this helps you start your trade-offs. Of course, you may find another way of looking at things!

      Reply

  10. Hi Darrell:

    Thank you for getting back to me. Here is the desired control method, and why Bluerail seems the best alternative right now. I do not wish to convert to 100% deadrail. There is ~18VAC at the trolley wire, and the return on the outer rails, as with real catenary systems. That is what I want to use to power the electronics, not an onboard power source. The problem I have is that the control signal goes over the wire as well (MTH DCS), which I’d love to get away from. Plus, there are the two Atlas AEM7s that cannot use MTH PS3. Bluerail gets around all these issues, as the control is over the air, and the catenary only powers the onboard systems. Ron performed a Bluerail install on his Atlas AEM7, and it worked very nicely. The end issue there is Bluerail availability.

    Now your system is attractive because you use ~900mhz radio, which I would prefer over Bluetooth or WLAN. The question then becomes, can you power the radio equipment by AC? Not directly of course; you’d need a bridge and regulator somewhere, and then things get tricky, (primarily with the limited space in any AEM7 models).

    If you have an idea that might work using catenary voltage with your system, I’d love to hear it. I do not mean to take up your time, as I am not looking to be fully deadrail, but I do appreciate your responses and innovation.

    Reply

    1. Nate,

      Thanks for your continued interest and response. Don’t worry about “taking up time.” I’m semi-retired, and I’m here to help.

      I make a special-purpose AC-to-DC converter that can power the ProMiniAir receiver/amp using AC power input. I use a large “keep-alive” capacitor originally used for a decoder so that this converter will power the ProMiniAir receiver/amp during power gaps. I charge $5 for this.

      You then hook the input of this converter to your AC power and the DC output to the power plug on the ProMini Air receiver. This adds to the total footprint, but you can locate it separately.

      The ProMiniAir receiver is tiny: 1.1″x0.76″. The AC-to-DC converter is also small: 1.2″x0.94″. The powerful (13A) Cytron amp is 2.4″ x 1.3″. You can separately locate these components, giving you much installation freedom. Also, if the 82mm whip antenna is inconvenient for your installation, I provide a small adhesive patch antenna for $1.00. You can get an idea of the options from my homepage.

      I am selling the ProMiniAir receiver with a more miniature amplifier, the DRV8871, which is 1.0″x0.8″ that produces 3.6A, but I’m unsure if it will power your loco.

      I hope to hear from you soon.

      Reply

  11. One of the big problems with other Dead Rail systems is they are starting down the rabbit hole of a proprietary system. I really like your solution. Much like I liked the Tam Valley solution until they gave up on Dead Rail.

    Could you contact me with purchasing information?

    Thanks,
    George

    Reply

    1. Hi George, welcome to the site!

      Compatibility and affordability drove my ProMiniAir design and offerings. I dislike proprietary designs, so we provide the software and easyEda hardware designs on GitHub.

      You have two routes for purchasing:
      1. Contact me by email: darrelllamm0@gmail.com. We can then determine what you want and arrange payment via PayPal or Zelle with my email as the account #.
      2. Go to eBay and search for “ProMiniAir” to see my several listings for the ProMiniAir receivers and transmitters. The descriptions there may be helpful, too.

      Again, thanks for your interest in our site and products.

      Reply

  12. Hello. Can you sell me 5 DRV8871 recievers. (Smaller, lower amperage). Also, do you know where one can buy tiny magnetic Reed switches? R. Johnny Guild in Idaho. Thanks. 208 880-2302

    Reply

  13. Wes Cooper was kind enough to send me your way via a facebook post I made. I would like to purchase 2 receivers. one with small amplifier and 1 with large amplifer. I will try them out and figure out my future needs from there. I think it’s great that you make a product to fill in with my tam valley / airwire needs. Send me via email how to order and pay please.
    thanks
    Mike

    Reply

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